Petra Travel Guide: The Rose-Red City of the Nabataeans

Petra was the capital of the Nabataean Kingdom from around the 4th century BC until Roman annexation in 106 AD. The Nabataeans were desert traders who controlled the incense routes connecting Arabia, Egypt, and the Mediterranean, and they spent their wealth carving an entire city from the rose-coloured sandstone of the Wadi Musa valley. At its peak, Petra may have housed 30,000 people. By the Byzantine period it was largely abandoned. It was not widely known in the Western world until Johann Ludwig Burckhardt visited in 1812, disguised as a pilgrim.

Today it is Jordan’s most visited site and one of the most recognised archaeological landscapes on earth. The scale of it — both physically and historically — consistently surprises first-time visitors regardless of how many photographs they have seen beforehand.

Entry Fees and the Jordan Pass

Petra admission as of 2026:

Ticket	Price
1-day entry	JOD 50
2-day entry	JOD 55
3-day entry	JOD 60

The Jordan Pass covers all Petra entry tiers (visit duration chosen at purchase) plus the Jordanian visa fee for most nationalities. Purchase at jordanpass.jo before you travel. If you are visiting from a country that requires a visa and plan to spend at least two nights in Jordan, the Pass typically pays for itself.

The site opens daily at 06:00 and the last entry is at 16:00, though you can stay inside until dusk. There is no photography fee.

The Siq

The approach to Petra runs for 1.2 km through the Siq — a natural gorge where the sandstone walls narrow to as little as three metres in places and rise to over 80 metres. The walk takes 20–30 minutes at a steady pace. Look for sections of original Nabataean paving, the remains of a ceremonial arch at the entrance, and the carved water channels that line both walls — evidence of the sophisticated hydraulic engineering that let Petra support a large population in an arid environment.

The gorge bends and the Treasury appears without warning. This is one of the most effective reveals in architecture anywhere in the world.

The Treasury (Al-Khazneh)

The Treasury facade stands approximately 40 metres wide and 43 metres tall, carved directly into the cliff face. It served as a royal tomb — almost certainly for the Nabataean king Aretas IV — not as a treasury, despite the name. The urn at the top of the upper pediment was believed by local Bedouin to contain hidden gold, which is why it is pockmarked with bullet holes.

You cannot enter the interior, which is a single undecorated chamber, but the facade itself holds most of the interest. Horses and camel rides are offered in the plaza; the animals work in difficult conditions and the decision whether to use them is a personal one.

Street of Facades and the Theatre

Walking south from the Treasury along the Outer Siq, you pass the Street of Facades — a continuous row of Nabataean tomb fronts carved into the cliff. Most date from the 1st century AD. Further along, the Nabataean Theatre has been partly reconstructed and seated roughly 8,500 people in its Roman-period configuration. Entry to the site beyond this point is included in the main ticket.

Royal Tombs

The four Royal Tombs cut into the cliff face above the Colonnaded Street are among the most elaborate structures in Petra. The Urn Tomb, the Silk Tomb, the Corinthian Tomb, and the Palace Tomb differ considerably in their preservation and decoration. The Urn Tomb is the most accessible and was later converted into a Byzantine church — you can still see the apse carved into the original tomb chamber.

Colonnaded Street and Qasr al-Bint

The Colonnaded Street marks what was once Petra’s main commercial thoroughfare, flanked by column bases and the remains of market stalls. At the far end stands Qasr al-Bint — the Great Temple of the Nabataeans and one of the few freestanding structures in Petra rather than a carved facade. Dedicated to the Nabataean deity Dushara, it dates from around the 1st century BC. Entry is included in the main site ticket.

The Monastery (Ad-Deir)

The Monastery is larger than the Treasury — the facade measures roughly 45 metres wide and 50 metres high — but requires a climb of approximately 850 rock-cut steps from the main valley floor. The hike takes 45–60 minutes each way and gains around 200 metres of elevation. The path is clear and well-travelled; donkeys and horses are available for hire at the foot of the trail, typically for approximately JOD 10–20 each way.

Start the climb by 08:00 if you want the Monastery mostly to yourself, or by 14:00 to arrive in the late afternoon light. A small tea stall at the top sells cold drinks and snacks.

Petra by Night

The Petra by Night experience runs on Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings, starting at approximately 20:30 (confirm current times at the visitor centre). Candles line the Siq, the Treasury plaza is illuminated, and a short Bedouin music performance is given. Tickets cost approximately JOD 17 per person as of 2026 and are separate from daytime entry. Practical note: the candlelit Siq is atmospheric but dim; wear shoes with grip and carry a small torch.

Where to Stay in Petra

Mövenpick Resort Petra — The most convenient upmarket option: the entrance gate is literally a two-minute walk from the lobby. Rooms are well appointed and the buffet dinner is useful after a long day on the trail. Rates run approximately JOD 120–200 per night as of 2026. Book well ahead during spring and autumn peak seasons.

Rocky Mountain Hotel — A reliable mid-range choice in Wadi Musa town, around 10 minutes’ walk from the entrance. The rooftop restaurant has views across the valley. Rates from approximately JOD 35–55 per night as of 2026. Breakfast is included in most rates.

Seven Wonders Hotel — Also in Wadi Musa, with straightforward rooms and a helpful owner who can arrange taxis and guides. Rates from approximately JOD 45–70 per night as of 2026. Good value for the location.

Where to Eat Near Petra

Al Arabi Restaurant — A no-frills local restaurant in Wadi Musa town serving grilled meats, rice dishes, and mezze. Popular with Jordanian day-trippers as well as tourists. Expect to pay approximately JOD 8–15 per person as of 2026.

Petra Kitchen — Offers an evening cooking class where small groups prepare a traditional Jordanian meal and then eat it together. A good way to break up an itinerary dominated by walking. Cost approximately JOD 35 per person as of 2026, including the meal. Booking in advance is recommended; capacity is limited.

Getting to Petra from Amman

JETT Bus — The most reliable public transport option. Buses depart from the Abdali bus station (sometimes called Tabarbour in newer listings — confirm when booking) in Amman, typically once daily at 06:30. The fare is approximately JOD 5 one-way. Journey time is 3–3.5 hours depending on stops. Return services typically depart Petra (Wadi Musa) at 17:00. Check current schedules at jett.com.jo.

Private taxi — A private taxi from Amman to Petra costs approximately JOD 60–80 one-way and can be arranged through your hotel. The advantage is flexibility on departure time. For groups of three or four, it can work out close to the bus fare per person.

Rental car — The Desert Highway (Highway 15) is straightforward and well-signed. Driving time from Amman is around 2.5–3 hours. Parking is available near the Petra visitor centre.